Perito Moreno glacier, and the outdoor paridise of El Chalten

El Calafate

Merry Christmas!

We spent our Christmas this year in El Calafate, Argentina! We celebrated it with some fellow Canadian travellers! Wine, a good chunk of steak, and friends. Not a bad way to spend Christmas.

There's really one thing people do here in El Calafate. Glaciers. Some might say that going to see the glaciers is like spending the day watching paint dry. Spending a couple hours at Perito Moreno however, is anything but.

Perito Moreno is a glacier that attaches to the third largest ice field in the world. What makes it interesting is the fact that it is actually advancing. {insert size of glacier here} As you sit and watch this one you actually get to see some action. Huge chunks of ice will calve and split off the glacier throughout the day. What looks like a tiny snowball from where you stand is actually the size of a car. This is evidenced by hearing what sounds like an explosion when it hits the water. The glacier constantly groans under its internal pressures. Every once and a while a giant pillar of ice, must be bigger then a semi-truck will break off and collapse into the water. Quite a sight.

El Chalten

Welcome to the outdoor playground of Argentina. With a couple of marquee hikes, a plethora of rock climbing routes, mountain bike  trails, and an up close view of the Fitz Roy mountain - all available to you as you walk out your door, - you won't get bored.

We spent our first day hiking 28km round trip (more km than Andrea or I have ever travelled by foot in a single day). It was to Cerro Torres. A set of 3 towers, which can be seen as you look over a pretty green glacier lake. Or not. It was so cloudy we didn't see much, but the post cards looked really nice! When we got to the lake, the wind was so strong (stronger then Torres del Paine) that at times your options are duck and cover or get pushed off the trail. For the record while we didn't see Torres, we did get a pretty clear view of Fitz Roy, later that evening over pizza.

Our other activity in El Chalten was rock climbing. Climbing a real cliff for the second time in my life I realize how different it is then a rock gym. Hand holds are not nicely shaped chin up holds that you can pull yourself up with. The smaller and sharper hand holds are much less forgiving. Our last climb had us climb in tandem to a pitch halfway up a cliff side. The adrenaline was pumping as we perched on the toe sized ledge on the side of the cliff. Just don't look down... Oh wow, too late! After climbing to knee shaking heights, there really is only one option. You have to go back down again! (actually you could keep going up – but really, what are we, crazy?) It takes a lot of chutzpah for a newbie to first lean back off the cliff and trust the guide that you first met that morning. Does he know what he's doing? Is his equipment good? That knot is going to hold me? Are you sure? Are you really sure? Really really sure? At this point, what other options do you have?  So you hold your breath and lean back and....

Well, you know how the rest goes, I wrote this didn't I?

Torres del Paine, aka Tour de Pain

Punta Arenas, Chile

And now our travellers will board the plane from Santiago. Their destination: Punta Arenas. It is through Chile that they will first enter the world reknown trekking territory of Patagonia. Their plane travels uneventfully over thousands of kilometers to the southern tracks of Chile.

Upon exiting the plane, they enter a land altogether different than any they have journeyed thus far. The land they enter is polar opposite to that of the Chilean desert. It is summer, yet the temperatures will only reach the teens here. The trees grow on slants, from the constant battering of the wind, which drives the rain near horizontal. Our travellers have landed on the Straight of Magellan. From here they could take a bus 10 hours south to Ushuia, Argentina and board a boat for a 2 day trip to Antarctica.

Cloudy Skies

Punta Arenas and the Magellan Straight is just a layover. But they discover just a short ride away, the Magellan penguin colonies. For this reason they decide to make a short stay here, before heading to Puerto Natalies, the launching pad into their first trek in Patagonia.

Magellan Penguins on the run

Puerto Natales, Chile

It is from this quaint port town that they will gather information and supplies, readying themselves for the 5 day trek through Torres del Paine, known as the W circuit.

The beautiful port town of Puerto Natales

A log, from the Torries del Paine circuit, found in our travellers trip journal:

Dec. 19 7:00 AM

Today we set out for Torres del Paine. Tour of Pain, as some have labelled it. We will walk a route called the W loop. Our plan is to stay in refugios in the night as we trek for 5 days and 4 nights for 68 km, there will be some incredible sights.

Dec. 19 11:00 AM

We have reached Ecocamp. We will stay here tonight. Our geodesic dome cabin, a semi-permanent structure, contains a double bed, cozy fleece sheets and a star gazing look out above the bed. Andrea compares it to glamping (glamour camping). We stop here only to leave our big bag. Then we start the trail to Las Torres the 3 pinnacles which often embodies pictures of Patagonia.

"Glamping"

Dec. 19 8:30 PM

We have returned from Las Torres. The 18 km trip was long and tough. The hike included a lot of up in a short period of time. The rock towers could be one of the most inspiring sites that we have seen in the mountains.

Las Torres

On the way down, Andrea slipped and hurt her wrist. We will tape it, and hope it gets better as we go not a good sign to start our trek.

It is Andrea's birthday in a few days. We celebrate the big 30 at Ecocamp with wonderful appetizers, dinner of quinoa and salmon (dietitians delight) and wine. Andrea writes “What more could someone ask for on their birthday, incredible views and hike with a satisfying meal it will be hard to top this birthday celebration.” I have packed a tiny cake, candles and birthday hats for the special celebration.

Happy Birthday!

Dec. 20 10:00 AM

It's raining, and windy here. It doesn't matter, we have to get to Los Cuernos today 11km away. The weather causes us to have a late start. I have used 2 bag covers on our big bag, but I fear that nothing will hold the water out.

Dec. 20 6:00 PM

We have made it to Cuernos. The hike was good, but long and cold in the rain. The rain has soaked through our jackets, and a bit through the bag covers. This weather is expected in Torres del Paine. The view of the mountains was a bit shrouded in cloud, but looks as though something big is looming within the clouds.

L

My knees have become sore from the constant downhill of today, with a large pack. It worries me a little, as tomorrow will be our longest hike. Nothing to do but keep going. Andrea's wrist is in rough shape and she fears a break from her fall.

The wind here is vicious reaching 80-100 km/hr. It shakes the lodge like its a paper building, Andrea wonders if the wall of windows will smash in on us in the dining room, but walls hold up. My top bunk shook throughout the night.

Dec. 21 7:00 AM

We have woken up to an incredible view. The sun rising on the powerful mountains takes our breaths away. It looks to be a clear day today. Should make for good hiking as Frances valley is said to have spectacular sights.

Los Cuernos in the morning light

Dec. 21 9:00AM

We have had breakfast, and have packed our bags. Our shoes have dried in front of the wood oven. It's time to go.

Breakfast with our fellow Canadians Terry and Tracy

Dec. 21 12: 30 PM

We are at Camp Italiano. It is in the crux of the W. Here we will head up the middle of the W . We are worried about time. Its 3 hours up Frances valley, and 3 hours back. It is another 3 hours to Refugio Paine Grande, where we stay tonight. There have been avalanches in the valley, that we saw during our hike to the camp. Perhaps we will get a good view of one. Hopefully not too close though. There have been reports of avalanchse in the Frances valley causing river levels to rise so high that the valley closes.

Avalanche in Frances Valley

Dec. 21 2:30 PM

I have reached the summit of the valley. Andrea waits below near the glacier. The view I have from here is 360 degree panoramic. Glaciers, the backside of the powerful mountains we saw in the morning, and glacial lakes. Words cannot capture what I see.

To the left of me

To the right of me

Behind me

Dec. 21 6:00PM

We have hiked hard, and reached Paine Grande. The rain began to pound just after our arrival. It is warm, and cozy here. This is a good place to rest our sore feet, at the end of a long hike. Nearly 20 km carrying our packs.

We leave jagged peaks behind as we hike to Paine Grande

New life, with old burnt forrest

The dinner served was delicious. Tender pork which flakes apart with tasty risotto. I feel we have the best of both worlds – incredible hiking, with very comfortable lodges at each stop.

Warming up at Paine Grande

Dec. 22 8:30 AM

Today is a short 11km trip. Our destination is Glacier Grey. It is the last destination on our journey.

Dec. 22 11:30 AM.

We have stopped for lunch at lago grey. The winds are powerful. If you don't step carefully the winds will knock you over. The water being blown off the lake straight into the air indicates 100km winds.

Dec. 22 2:30 PM

We have made it to Glacier Grey Lodge. Another very nice lodge. From here we leave our packs and hike to the glacier lookout point which is 5 minutes away.

Glacier Grey Lodge

Dec. 22 5:30 PM

We have visited the glacier. The blue ice was quite the sight. It is nice to be back in the warm lodge though. Today is Andrea's real birthday and we cheers with a Patagonia beer with some friends made on the loop from Canada. Happy Birthday Andrea!

Glacier Grey

Dec. 23 8:30 AM

This morning will be our last hike, 11km back to Paine Grande to finish the W loop in Torres del Paine. Our hike has been packed with incredible views, on some very nice days. Very lucky. Those nice days were sandwiched by typical Patagonian wind and rain. Our muscles are sore and ready for a rest.

This is the end of the log found from our travellers. For now, we will part, but we will continue to follow them as they make their way through the vast and wild, Patagonia. Goodbye for now.

Waiting for the boat home

Travelers Notes:

In Puerto Natales we stayed in “Nikos II”. I wouldn't recommend it. Sometimes there were no english speaking staff around. They are slow to clean, and garbages were overflowing when we were here. The rooms are a bit smelly, beds kind of old, and walls are thinner than cardboard. Erratic Rock, and some other hostels do info sessions on the W circuit. That's the first place I would look. The “W” or the “O” circuit are the popular hikes here. If you look to stay at refugios book early. Book with Veritce or Fantasticosur. If it appears there is no room, try booking.com. If there is still no room, you could just go and it could turn out that there actually is room. It was supposedly booked solid when we were there, but they were usually like half full. (except Cuernos, which was close to full but not completely). If you can, do the W loop West to East. The only reason it makes a difference is that you start with less for views and it gets better as you go also the wind typically blows west to east so it should mostly be at your back. This was our loop (east to west, so exactly backwards as what we would have liked, but still fantastic) using refugios and it worked out pretty good:

Day 1 – get of bus at Los Torres hotel. There is a 5 star hotel, 2 refugios and an ecocamp here. We stayed at the ecocamp. Hike up to Las Torres and back stay the night at Eco camp.

Day 2 – Hike to Las Cuernos, stay the night there

Day 3 – Hike up Frances valley, then back down to Paine Grande. This one was a long and tough day. We didn't do all of Frances Valley. Leave your big bags at Camp Italiano for the hike up the valley. Stay the night at Paine Grande. If you are backpacking, we recommend staying at Camp Italiano for a night.

Day 4 – Hike to Refugio Grey. You can stay here like we did or hike back down and be on the catamaran by 6:30 to go home. I suggest staying the night. It gives you some time to explore and see the glacier. And gives the legs a break. Refeugio grey is real nice and new.

Day 5 – Hike back to Paine Grande. The Catamaran leaves at 12:30 or 6:30PM. You can also get a hostel to call the Glacier Grey hotel, and arrange a ferry from Refugio Grey to pick you up, take you to the other side of the glacier, and bring you back to their hotel. From there transportation can be arranged ahead of time to bring you back to the buses. This option is more expensive. The catamaran brings you to the buses and from there back to Puerto Natales, where you will have to stay another night because it is too late to get a bus out. 

One, Two, Skip a Few, 99.. Mendoza!

Heading into Argentina

Colourful rocks - reds greens, yellows; Salta-  meeting with Argentinian friends made in Ecuador, huge gigantic pieces of meat, wine, architecture, cool rock formations; Cafayete - peaceful wine country, slow pace, small town, long siestas, riots, strikes... Long buses - 6 hr rides followed by 10 hour layovers, 40 degree heat, another 15 hour bus ride... And hey, we're in Mendoza!

Colourful rocks near Salta, Argentina

This steak does NOT meet dietitian standards.

Wine with friends

Its hot up here in Northern Argentina, desert actually, and that makes it perfect for - you guessed it - wine. We're in wine country! Unfortunately for the sweet white wine lover, malbec is king here. Most wine here is red. That's ok though, we're in Mendoza, and a wine tour is a must. And hey, lucky us, our tour is private! On the agenda: 4 wineries. A classic tour and tasting at stop one. We become the chemists at stop two as we learn how to produce our own blend and compete for the best blend! (Andrea must have cheated...) At stop 3 you will stagger into the winery for a 5 course dinner with a wine to pair for each course. (how many glasses have we had so far?) Delicious! And the fourth stop we taste the progression from the unfinished in the tanks, to the finished products out of the barrels. I need to sit down.

A Bodega in Mendoza, Argentina

Andrea's special blend.

Seriously, who drinks this much wine at lunch?

Another spin (I know y'all love a good pun now and then) on wine tours is the bicycle. Pretty much everyone who goes through a hostel ends up at Mr. Hugo's to rent a bike. How much wine can YOU drink without falling off your bike?

A self serve biking wine tour.

Seriously though, Argentina is nuts. I mean, don't get me wrong, it's the nicest, cleanest and least poor country we've been to in South America. We love it. But the government is just crazy! Heres the deal: Inflation here is running rampant, and the value of their peso is sinking like a rock. Everyone wants USD, because it's way more stable. The crazy part? The government has actually banned foreign currency! Other then buying it on the street (and it's expensive) you can't get it. Period. (Believe me we have tried) Travelers will go to Uraguay or Chile if they are running out of cash to pull out more USD. An illegal market has developed to supply it. They call it the blue dollar. Legally the exchange rate is 6.3 pesos to 1 USD (right now anyway, its constantly going up though), which is the rate your bank will charge an American using their credit card. But on the blue market (it's blue not black because EVERYONE knows about it) you will get 9.3 to 1. It's crazy, it's illegal but the rate will actually get printed in the newspaper! The government just pretends it doesn't exist!

I gotta say, it felt pretty sketch the first time we went it the jewellery store to get out money changed:

The money changers were lined up on the street. Contact was made, the rate was negotiated. It pays to come equipped with knowledge of the actual rate. You won't get it here in Mendoza, but not knowing is a sure way to be taken advantage of. We're escorted into the shops, downstairs into a tiny hole in the wall jewellery store. The store clears out and the door is closed. Jewellery is not the main business here. A knock on the wall and a small hidden windows slides open. Wads of cash are exchanged. A black light is pulled out for our use if we desire, to check the money for fakes. The changers are more reliable then the banks, their reputation is on the line. Still, to not check would be foolish. The money is good. The exchange complete.

By the way - we're off to Chile. We need some more USD!

Country quirk: In many parts of Argentina they believe strongly in siestas. Everything shuts down from 1-5, often restaurants will be closed from 1 to 8 or 8:30. How annoying.

Argentinian empanadas are where it's at.

Travelers notes: we stayed at hostel Lagares. Good price and fairly close to the main square. It was clean, had a kitchen, and had breakfast (just toast and homemade sweet bread, coffee and tea). Tons of movies available if you wish. Javier the owner will help you with anything, even give you help planning your trip as he's traveled within Argentina himself.

Changing money really isn't sketchy... It really does help stretch your money. Everyone does it, you'll have no issues. You get better value in Buenos Aries.

We did our wine tour with Mendoza Wine Camp, I recommend it.

Riots in Cafayete

Biking with Mr Hugo.

San Pedro

San Pedro

We decided to do a short trip through San Pedro. We are really just using it as a way into Argentina. But hey, while we are here, we might as well stay a few nights and have some fun.

How do you have fun in the desert? Well try sandboarding on for size! It's not as easy as you might think. Well actually if you're a beginner it might be real easy. The thing is getting speed is almost impossible. That's what makes it easy for a beginner, but tricky for those who want to go fast! There is so much friction! But I did manage to find the steepest part of the hill, and did get some speed there. That's when the real issues started. I wanted to go fast because I wanted to hit the jump at the bottom. And hit the jump I did! Remember how I was talking about all that friction? Man when I hit that jump my board just stuck! I came to a complete stop in an instant. My body? It did not. As I soared through the air I couldn't help but think: “I hope the sand is as soft of a landing as they said iti was”. And then... Well not sure what happened next, but when I came too I sure as heck felt it.

Sandboarding, the long walk up

What else...How 'bout a sunset. Classic. And what better place then moon valley. It's like watching the sun set over the moon. Why is it called moon valley?

Hmm. Stargazing! So cool. No light in the desert other than natural light. This French astronomer has a heck of a setup. Those telescopes were huge! At 60 centimetres in diameter you won't find bigger around San Pedro. Man, I just loved seeing the tarantula nebula inside another galaxy! Saturn's rings, Betelgeuse – wow it's so big and orange looking through the telescope!

The Southern Cross can be seen just above the horizon

And of course, San Pedro is so relaxed and laid back, that heck, take a stroll through the town. Talk to some jewellers. Have a custom designed ring made. Kick back! Relax! You're in San Pedro!

Travelers notes: We stayed at Mama Tierra. Very close to the bus station, about a 10 minute walk to the centre of town. $25 per person. Nice, free breakfast. I was happy with it. We booked the sandboarding and moon valley with Inca tours. They are right on the square. We had no issues here. 15000 pesos. The star gazing was done with “SPACE”. I highly recommend this tour. Others have little telescopes on the roof of their home, or try to say they have the only astronomer. Don't bite. Go to Caracoles street, towards the end of the street #166, you will find “Space”. Book there. They have Spanish, English or French options. Right beside the stargazing place is Rodrigo. He made a custom ring for Andrea for no extra charge. If you see a silver ring, kind of a little saddle shaped, with two strips of silver filled in with polished stone running down the middle – that's Andrea's design!

Sandboarding

Rock formations at "Valley of the Moon"

One of the greats

He really was one of the greats.

We often reserve this title for the famous. But I think it more accurately describes him, then it does the majority of people we actually use it for. The impact he had on this world is immeasurable. His story was one worthy of being retold.

We all have many fond memories of him. The places he has lived, the stories he has told, the jobs he has had, the laughs we have shared. The predicaments he has been in... Certainly all worthy of being told, and worth remembering. But for now I would like to focus on something more important than what he did. I would like to talk about who he was. The part of his story I would like to focus on is who he was.

He was one of the hardest workers I knew. Whether he was running the feed mill, working the lumber camp, running the grocery store, selling properties... In all he did he did his best, and what was needed to provide for his family.

He was was a gentle hearted, caring man. Caring about and serving others wasn't just something he did, an obligation that he filled. It was who he was. For me, what stands out wasn't so much the service he did, with organizations like Habitat for Humanity, or the Gideons. But more so the direct influence he had on those around him. How many people are going to church, reading the bible, have accepted the Lord into their lives because he got to know them on the bus, on the way to work, or on the C-train. How many strangers did he take the time to talk to, to befriend, to help, to give rides to (even to his own peril), to share the gospel with? As this kindness, this love spreads through others? Exponential growth. Immeasurable.

He knew what he believed in, and had absolute faith. Faith can be contagious. I felt it spread to me whenever I was around him, bolstering my own faith, as I am sure it did to others. His life was testimony, and he openly shared his concerns, his desires for others to walk in the way of the Lord. Being with him, it would have been hard not to share his desires.

It sums up best like this: "But the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, forbearance, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, gentleness and self-control". As I quote Galatians 5:22-23,  I wonder, how is it possible for a man to have ALL of these qualities? And yet, I read the list again, and yes, it's like its a perfect description. If anything was an indication of his relationship with the Lord it's this. 

So who was he? A great man, a true servant of the Lord.

This is why I respected him. But, this is not why I loved him. There was something else.

What made me love Grandpa Penner had nothing to do with what a great man he was. No; rather, it was how he loved his family. It was how his eyes lit up when we visited him. It was how he cared about our walk with God, about who we married, about what was going on in our life. It was his deep desire to see us grow up to be children of God. It was his warmth, his hospitality, his friendly conversations. I knew exactly how much Grandpa cared about us. You could see the glow around his face on every visit. It's these things that I valued most. Things things that bring the tears to my eyes. It was the loving grandfather.

Grandpa, I loved you too. I will miss you. And I look forward to seeing you again!

On December 1, 2013, my grandpa Penner passed away. Our prayers go out to Grandma, and the Penner family. While they are together in Calgary, we are stuck in Argentina. So instead of honouring him with my presence, I have tried to honour him with my words. Grandpa will be sorely missed by friends and family, but those who knew him, know he's having a heck of a time without us right now in heaven. 

2 Timothy 4:6-8

6 For I am already being poured out like a drink offering, and the time for my departure is near. 7 I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith. 8 Now there is in store for me the crown of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous Judge, will award to me on that day—and not only to me, but also to all who have longed for his appearing.

Matthew 25:21

21 His lord said to him, ‘Well done, good and faithful servant; ... Enter into the joy of your lord.'

The salt flats and rugged desert land of Bolivia

Salar de Uyuni

Train Cemetery

If your going to be off roading in the desert, the vehicle of choice is the Toyota Land Cruiser. At least that's the sentiment here in Uyuni, A small town in Bolivia that survives on the profits they make on salt collected in one of the largest salt flats in the world. Then all you need is a driver (preferably one who speaks English) and you are good to go.

The first stop the driver will make is the train cemetery. Here you will find a heap load of coal fired trains come from the United States to here, for the sole purpose of finding their final rest. The rusted out, grafitied trains, do make for some great photos.

Salt collections, each pile to his own

From here the driver will head toward the salt flats. But on the way he will stop at a train bridge, where you will get a great view of some volcanoes. Keep driving along these tracks and you will find yourself in Chile. But you will have to wait a while to see a train, they only go once a week. The view is fantastic, its just flat desert, then up shoots a big volcano.

Endless salt 

Shoot some photos and stretch your legs here. Then get back on the truck. Next stop will be the salt flats. The salt flats are a seemingly never ending desert of white. The driver, who will double as a tour guide, oh and be your cook, will tell you that the salt is 150m deep, and came from a giant body of water that was once connected to the ocean. Funny thing to think of in a place that is 4000m above sea level. Everyone here has there own pile of salt that they collect. There really is more than enough for everyone. While in the salt flats the thing to do for tourists, is to take funny photos that play on the fact that in an endless dessert of salt, there is no depth perception. Don't forget to bring some toys!

Roooarr!

After corralling the troops back into the truck, the driver will then take you, along the rubber blackened salt road, to Cactus Island. Literally an island among the sea of salt, it hosts big fat giant cacti. When it only rains in two months of the year not much grows, and these cacti will only shoot up a centimetre a year.

On exit of the salt flats it's time for the driver to find you a place to stay. If you are lucky it will be Hostel de Sal. A hostel made completely of salt. Even the beds are made of salt! Oh, and please,

Ahh, finally big print in Lonely Planet!

take a shower. It's the last one you will get for a while. Be considerate to the other passengers.

In the morning the driver will take you to some wicked rock formations. It may strike you as a great place to mountain bike, but keep dreaming, you don't have a bike. Take a look at the horizon here, as the volcano you see is constantly smoking. Very cool.

Now buckle up and get ready for a ride through mountainous desert. There are no roads here. That's part of the fun. This rugged desert

We are at 4650m here

terrain is straight from Mars. Eventually the path will take you to the lagoons. Red lagoons, green lagoons, pink flamingos, white flamingos, blue lagoons, white lagoons, more lagoons then you can shake a stick at...

By the end of the day the driver will take you to the geysers. Bubbling mud coming out of the grand, 200 degrees Celsius. High pressure steam coming up from the ground like it was a broken pipe at an oil refinery. Then you will go to the hot springs. You will sleep here. Sitting under the stars, in the hot springs is an amazing experience. The

Red Lagoon

desert sky has no light but for the stars. Incredible.

The last day of the tour could see you going back to Uyuni, on a 7 hour trip, or you do as we did, and hitch a ride to the Chilean border. Viva Chile!

Travelers Notes: We booked our tour with Red Planet. We bought it at Kanoo Tours in La Paz, they did make a mistake and told the tour

Steam from the geyser

company we were booked for 1 day when really we paid and had a reciept for a 3 day tour. Probably just simple mistake. Gravity in La Paz will also book with Red Planet. Red Planet I believe is the most expensive, at like 170 person if memory serves. But they also had the best reputation and English guides. English guides aren't completely necessary, but they are nice. The other thing that made Red planet unique was where they stay: They stay at the salt hostel the first night (I think another company does this too) and the second night is at the hot springs. Staying at the hot springs alone made the increased price worth it. Not much going on in Uyuni, minimize your time spent there.

Hot springs